Bishop Castle on AGFA Precisa CT 100

No great art to be found here, just a family outing, really.  My bro was in town, we went to Bishop Castle in southern Colorado which this guy has been building by hand for the last 40 years or so.  I used about half of my roll of AGFA Precisa CT 100 on this outing.  Honestly if I did it again I’d have to get a wider lens or use a different camera.  Most of the shots are using a 35mm lens and it just isn’t wide enough to get everything in that I want to, but that’s life.  I don’t think the pictures are too amazing, but this is the kind of stuff that I’ve been doing for the last 5 years now, just documenting things and life the way people used to do it: on film.

Again, I think AGFA Precisa is probably rebranded Fuji Provia 100F.  I think it looks great myself, and it cost me half of what a “real” roll would have.  I hope they make more, because right now people seem to be selling it for way too much.  Don’t buy it unless you can get it for cheap.

More on slides: AGFA Precisa CT 100 (and more bracketing)

Which according to the internet (so it must be true), is rebranded Fuji that didn’t meet quality standards.  Despite what the saleslady said when I bought it (“It’s not Fuji!”), I don’t think it’s Agfachrome, don’t think it’s actually made by AGFA (their film is sold by and as Rollei now), and since the box said “Made in Japan” as well as the film canister coming in the standard Fuji plastic container, I’m going to have to go with the internet on this one.  As far as quality goes, I’d say it looks great, I have no complaints there at all; perhaps the colors aren’t as wild as Velvia 50 but it does make up for it in other areas.  I bracketed some shots I wasn’t sure about, but the differences are pretty minute compared to the Velvia.  Whether this is Provia or possibly Astia, this is a much more forgiving film, and I might have gotten away with not bracketing at all.  It’s something that’s good to know in case I get one chance at a particular shot: at the very least I won’t have to worry as much.  Here’s what I mean:

03660035a  03660034a  03660033a
f/11 250                 f/9.5 250                 f/8 250   on a 35mm lens

And again, this time a whole stop apart:

03660026a 03660027a 03660028a
f/5.6 500               f/4 500                   f/2.8 500    on a 100mm lens

I think in both cases, the middle picture seems most correct to me, judging by color.  So with this film, the penalty for fudging your exposure by a stop or so is that the colors will be slightly different–you’re not really in danger of missing the shot.  As far as I remember, the light meter told me the shots on the left, the ones on the right were the reading of my hand against a green background.

I picked up this film to try because it was quite a bit cheaper ($8/roll) and would do so again if I could find any more.  It seems stocks are depleted and prices are high now, so unless you can get this cheap you’re better off with the real Fuji Provia 100F.  As with the last roll, I used the Canon AE-1 that was gifted to me, and most of my pictures were taken with a 35mm lens that was also gifted to me.  Here’s one more series that my brother insisted I get a picture of; I think I’d go far left this time as the most correct-looking:

03660022a 03660023a 03660024a
f/11 125                 f/8 125                  f/5.6 125   on a 35mm lens
You’re welcome, Jake.

In other news, I will be going for a minor in Visual Arts, emphasis in photography, because I’m not busy enough already with all my music stuff.  Yay for me.  Actually, I’ve found that I really enjoy taking pictures and want to continue taking photography classes.  Also, this will give me a good excuse to spend more money on cameras.

Shooting daylight film inside (without a filter) Pt. II

This is also from my first roll of slide film (Velvia 50) from back at the end of April, when I transferred some tape multitracks to Protools on the school computer.  I just got to the point where I have enough free time to start playing around with them, and it seems that the files have been corrupted.  It makes me wonder why I bother with digital at all…



I think I’ll get this down yet.  Velvia turns fluorescent light green.  It was actually quite easy to fix compared to some of the ones I had to adjust from the Superia 800 rolls.  Digital post.  I took the magenta/green slider nearly all the way toward the magenta side, and then added a slight cooling filter.  It looks good enough, but then again it’s hardly a masterpiece of photography.  Again, this was using the 35mm lens that was given to me on the Canon AE-1 body that was also given to me.  The roll of Velvia was expired, I got it for half price, and it doesn’t look wrong in any way.

Film is affordable.

Slide film: bracket your shots

It’s Velvia week here at the Resurrected Camera.  I just couldn’t resist the pull of color reversal anymore.  As far as being affordable, I suppose that depends on how much the results justify the means.  For someone just starting out, no, I wouldn’t recommend it; even I had trouble and I’ve been shooting film for years.  With slide film, you either nail your exposure or you miss the shot; there’s very little latitude.

Bracket your shots.

Here’s something I’m pretty happy with (and that the light meter didn’t lie to me about):00010024
35mm f/8 1/60 Fuji Velvia 50

Now this is the same shot overexposed and underexposed by one stop (f/5.6 and f/11):

00010023 00010025

Yeah I hang around areas where one can see Pike’s Peak quite easily.  The thing is of course that, considering how many times I’ve photographed it, makes it hard to keep it fresh for me, but hopefully not for you.  Here’s a view from UCCS campus:

00010031 00010030 00010029
50mm f13.5,9.5,6.8 1/250 Fuji Velvia 50 (the one the meter said was correct is far left)

I never had anything to worry about with color negative film; it just pulls in all the light it needs, but unfortunately this just isn’t the case with slides.  This is one that just didn’t take; it’s a shame because it looked just fantastic on the day.  According to the guy at the camera store, I should look into getting a graduated ND filter (I think he mentioned Cokin?) to be able get good exposure for the entire slide, when going for these contrasty shots.  I think I’d agree with him, but it’s going to cost…

And speaking of the cost.  I used a different lab this time.  They sent it up their main location in Boulder, where they have their E-6 machine (plus a very nice Noritsu scanner edit: I’m no longer a fan of that scanner…I must have just been dazed by the beauty of color reversal film).  It was $20 for one roll (processed, scanned, mounted, and a set of 4×6 proofs…it was a package deal), and I had to wait 5 days to get everything back.  This new place does seem to be a bit more professional in some things and I would definitely use them for any time I’m not shooting 35mm color negative.  The film is about twice as expensive as well.  I got around that by buying a (refrigerated) roll of Velvia 50 that expired a year ago.  It’s still good, thankfully, and the price was much better.  The other option in slide film is what’s being called AGFA Precisa CT, which, being made in Japan, I’d assume is rebranded Fuji of some sort.  And who knows how much Ferrania will cost when it comes out?  I guess we’ll see.  As I said in the beginning, it’s all about the results.  (which I’m still working on getting…)